Pickin' 101

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• I start each week by searching websites for local estate sales and yard sales.   There are a few that work locally for me:  gsalr.com,  yardsales.net, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist.   Different regions may have other sites that may be more prominent. 
• The window for picking (individually) is narrow.  Typically 2 hours on Saturday mornings.  Estate sales will also provide opportunities in the early mornings on Thursdays and Fridays.   Keep in mind, the best items will go early (7:30 am).  This is why preparing during the week is important.  Target your one or two leading sale location(s).
• Estate sale and yard sale listings will have descriptions and some have pictures of items they are selling.  Take full advantage of descriptions and pictures.  Most websites have search options to allow me to search regional sales for specific items (zero in on what you want).   
• Search for the listings that imply the seller wants everything gone vs. need to earn cash.   Look at moving sales (everything has to go),  Estate sale (everything has to go).  Community sales (common goal is to get everything off the driveway or out of the garage).    
• After you targeted the one or two sales, use the websites to locate all sales within close proximity to the targeted sales.   This will maximize the number of sales you visit in a 2 hour window. 
• Don't discriminate when driving by a sale.   I have found some of my best items at sales where only one table and a few items are visible at street level.   You won't always see what you're looking for from peering out your car window.   Get out of the car.  Side note:  I've found a lot of great stuff at trailer parks....go figure.
• When you find a sale with lots of good items, start a pile.  Gather as many items as you can together (bundle) and then negotiate a price with the seller.  You will get more stuff and a better price.   
• Electronics probably won't work -__-    When buying electronics, there is one simple check I always do... open up the battery compartment.   If batteries are in there and corroded, then the best that the item may be good for is parts.   Pass on it or buy it for the right price.   I am always pleasantly surprised when I add a battery and the item works.   Also,  for stereo receivers, I rarely buy them for more than $25.  And I usually pass unless they have remote controls.   Reasoning here is that you don't want a garage full of receivers that only play from the right side or left side (capacitors blown or channel burned out).  The remote is almost always good for $25 on eBay (as long as the battery compartment isn't corroded).
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• Everyone has different interests and collects different things.  When you're getting started in picking, look for items that you know.  The assumption is that you also know which items of interest are high end and which items of interest are low end.   If you notice a sale with a collection of something, do some research on that topic item.  Know which items in that collection are most desirable to collectors (certain colors, models, age of item, etc.).  Doing your homework up front will go a long way.    If you aren't buying the whole collection, it will get very frustrating trying to determine which one or two pieces of the collection you should buy. 
• For everything else you see you see at a sale, buy them if you like them.   That way if they have little or no value, you won't mind because you like them.  It will take some time, but your interests and "expertise" will grow and you will be more proficient at identifying the high end and low end of different items.     
• This is important.  If you are doing this for the sole purpose of making a little extra cash... a strong consideration should be given to the question "Can I ship it?"   You don't want to be tasked with shipping furniture, super heavy cast iron items, items requiring boxes longer than 33" (Fed Ex max length before assessing size fees).  Keep in mind, it's likely that you will be doing the packing.  Trust me... I've been up till 2am packing.  Keep it simple stupid (KISS). 
• The elephant in the room.  Sometimes you will find that certain item that is so unusual, so cool, and so large.  If you like it, want to keep it, and know where you will put it... then buy it.   Otherwise, it will become the elephant in the room that you will eventually be happy to pay someone to take away.  
• Antiques and Vintage items.  How old is it?  You can guess the age based on the material it was construction from.  How was it constructed?
• Early 1900's - Cast iron, forged nails, silver, oak wood, bakelite (material an old phone was made from), clockwork mechanisms. 
• 1930's and 40's (pre WWII) - Pressed steel, brass, oak wood, nickel plating, bakelite, clockwork mechanisms.
• 1940's (post WWII) and 50's - Aluminum, brass, some plastic, rubber, gas powered and early dry cell mechanisms.  Made in US
• 1960's and 70's - Tin, plastic, chrome plating, Phillips head screws.  Battery operated.  Made in Japan, Taiwan, Hong Kong. 
• 1980's -  Battery operated (lots of batteries) and electric, plastics, No internet stuff.  All tech was in cartridges.  Phones became cordless … not to be confused with wireless : )  Lots of goods from US and Japan.
• 1990's - Items mass produced in Korea, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  Bar codes on most products. 
• 2000's - Made in China.   Barcodes on everything. 

January - February

• Estate Sales

March - May

• Spring Cleaning - Community sales

June - August

• Garage and Yard sales (7 - 9am)
• Estate Sales
• On line Auctions (eBay).  I find that summer month internet auctions typically have less traffic or lower prices.  My speculation is that people are out and about enjoying summer activities and vacations.   They may intend to bid on an item, but get side tracked and miss the end of the auction.  

September - October

• Fall Community sales
• Estate Sales

November - December

• Estate Sales (Fridays)

Halloween- Unique, skeletons, masks, oddities

Military- Helmets, clothing, WWII, Vietnam, *Look for Army green

Clothing- Air Jordan shoes, concert shirts, high end names (used no tag), jeans & shirts (common brands with tags), purses (name brand, watch out for knock-offs)

* Dirty is okay!!   Well.  Usually.  Not clothing.  Most Items can be cleaned with the proper materials like Goo gone, Windex, 0000 steel wool, light soap and water.  Keep in mind that it is easy to ruin something by trying to clean it with the wrong product.  The older the item, the higher the risk of damage. There usually isn't an easy button for cleaning (otherwise the item wouldn't be dirty when you purchased it).  Take the time to do it right.  

Antique's should NOT be cleaned.  Value is most often greatest when showing natural signs of age (patina).